Repaint Tutorial of Monster High Dolls 2023

Repaint Tutorial of Monster High Dolls 2023


Part One of the Monster High Repaint Tutorial: Materials The materials I use to repaint my dolls will be the focus of this first section. These are just a few of the things I've tried and kept using because they've worked best for me. I don't claim to be an expert in art materials. I constantly experiment with new materials, both because I obsessively collect art supplies and also because I always enjoy working with the best tools. I'll update this tutorial whenever I try something new and report back on how it went.


Just a word of caution: this is quite lengthy! Even though it's not always necessary, I like to have the tools at my disposal to bring my thoughts to life because I have a lot of ideas that keep coming to me. The materials I use have been organized by type and listed in the order you'll probably use them to make it easier to find. Since this is written for complete novices, even if you've been doing this for some time, you might find some things to be fairly obvious.

1. Naturally, solvents are utilized for removal. However, since each solvent performs differently on various surfaces, it is only appropriate for particular applications.

Acetone is pure in the first can on the right. I use it to remove the vinyl head of the doll's factory paint. I have never experienced any negative outcomes as a result of using it. However, you must exercise extreme caution to avoid getting it on the doll's hair or the rigid plastic body. It melts the plastic, so don't even try it on the body! However, if you use q-tips, it's simple to keep it to the head. Additionally, the black bottle in front of the acetone can contains acetone as well. Since I have to open the can with a screwdriver, it was much quicker to just pour some into a small glass bottle that was easy to access.


Winsor and Newton Brush Cleaner can be found next to the acetone. If they can't stand the smell or think it's dangerous, some people use it instead of acetone to remove factory paint. That was something I tried, and it was awful. Removing the factory paint is a lot more difficult and takes more time. Additionally, it is more smeared. To thoroughly clean my brushes, I use the brush cleaner as directed. Most of the time, I wash the brush while I work in a cup of water. However, there are times when I forget or wash it improperly, resulting in a hard, unusable brush. The brush will be revived quickly and easily using the brush cleaner.
It will eat through the bottom of any plastic cup, so never put it in there! The first time I used it, I did that and then left, leaving my speakers and desk covered in it when I got back! Fortunately, it fell off! with water, soap, and rubbing alcohol in some places.
Rubbish remover is one of my essentials, too! It works best on the head or body to remove a previous paint job. Acrylonitrile makes acrylic paint difficult to remove. Additionally, rubbing alcohol is safer for the body than this! In addition, if the paint has already dried, I use it to correct a mistake while repainting. Use a brush instead because it will quickly become gummy.
Instead, use pointy Q-tips, which I just discovered! They are ideal for precisely erasing minute errors. If you press too hard, it will eat through the sealant, so if you blushed there, be prepared to go over that area after sealing it next time. Water color pencils and pastels can also be blended or removed by simply soaking the end in water.
Take note that nail polish remover is not shown. This is due to the fact that every brand I've tried has failed to remove factory paint! I've seen several people recommend it, so it's possible I'm using the wrong ones. It is not worth taking a chance and wasting money, so I personally wouldn't try it!

2. Spray Sealants Like before, all sealants will, of course, seal something. However, because they are formulated differently, some sealants will become cloudy or sticky when applied to particular surfaces. At times that could happen in any event, when you utilize the right sealant, since all splash sealants are extremely delicate to temperature and dampness. Always shake your can well to warm it up before spraying your doll. Make sure the area has a temperature of at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit and a humidity of less than 50%. A temperature and humidity gauge can be purchased for about $10 to ensure safety. For people like me who live in cold and wet regions, this can be challenging. It's a blessing to have a skilled father who built me a spray booth.

If you intend to repaint with pastels or watercolor pencils, you must use sealants in a spray form because they will smear otherwise. Brush-on sealant suffices if you are not utilizing those items. But keep in mind that even a matte brush-on sealant can't exactly replicate the texture of bare vinyl, so blurring the edges is important when sealing your blush. Additionally, vinyl can be stained by even the finest acrylic paint if no protective layer is applied beforehand.

Okay, starting once more on the right. Testors Dullcote is the first one. My current favorite because it's cheap and easy to find. I've been consistently utilizing this one lately. My experience with Testors dullcote thus far has been exceptional. Despite the claims on the bottles, it usually doesn't affect any metallics after one coat has dried. In a lot of places, I've read that it can make resin dirty and easily yellow. First of all, I'm using it on vinyl rather than resin, so that may alter the situation. I haven't noticed any yellowing on any of my dolls, but the crazy skin tones of the monster high dolls might make it hard to tell. I will put this to the test by leaving a spare head on my window sill for about a week. The only thing left for me to do is wait for the sun to come back to Oregon, which could take months. Even so, you shouldn't really expose your doll to a lot of sunlight. Both the vinyl and any paint you use could undoubtedly turn yellow over time.
Also, when it came to making the doll look "dirty," I actually had a lot more trouble because the zm spray kept drawing a lot of dirt to my doll's face. Even though Dullcote appears to dry completely in a short amount of time, it may still occasionally feel slightly sticky when pressed hard. If my fingers are sweaty, I've also noticed that on dolls that have been done for months. Aside from that, it does not at all attract dirt or dust. Dullcote's only real drawbacks are that it doesn't seem to work on the body and doesn't have a tooth. If you only use pencils for customs, Mister Super Clear is better.
which is very close to it! This product has received a lot of praise, and for good reason. It performs similarly to Testor Dullcote on vinyl. It might be better, given that the tooth really grabs crayons and pastels. The only reason I don't use it all the time is that it would cost a lot to order online. I always worried that if I ran out of money in the middle of a commission, I would have to wait weeks for more. In the event that anyone is particularly resistant to Testors Dullcote, I do have a full bottle on hand. Besides, I haven't tried it yet, but I've read that it won't work on the hard plastic body and will just peel off.

The Volks ZM spray comes next. The bottle above is actually empty; when I first started painting, I used it. Since I ordered a 1/6 doll that I didn't like, I had it on hand. Despite having more tooth, ZM spray appears to be identical to MSC overall. On the dolls I used it on, it probably accumulated dust quickly as a result.

Purity Seal from Citadel is that huge bottle with all the small text on it. Because the price was so low for the quantity, I decided to take a chance and ordered some from Amazon. Don't use it for that as it ended up being a little sticky on the vinyl head. However, it was very effective on the bodies! Before using it, make sure to really shake it, or you might end up with a thin, white film that is easy to scrape off.

Rustoleum Painters Touch Matte comes last. I decided to give it a try because I bought some at Joann's for about $3. It will become very sticky, so do not use it on vinyl! It does work on bodies made of hard plastic. Although I haven't used it much, it feels very sturdy. After you painted the skin a different color, you could use it to seal the body.

3. SafetyIt's very important to be safe! especially if you are spraying or sanding anything at all. If you plan to use a spray, you will only need all of the aforementioned supplies. Negligent protection can have devastating effects on your body. If you don't wear protective gear, spraying anything can and will harm your lungs severely! It may not be obvious at first, but it will get worse over time. Black Lung is one of the things you can grow. There is no treatment, and if it gets bad enough, it will make your death painfully and slowly. Protect yourself, then! I only paid about $40 for everything above. This is a lot less than the thousands of dollars you could potentially spend if you got sick!

First, my organic vapor cartridges and half-face mask. If you use spray paint or sealant, you must have this because it is the most crucial item. A mask made of paper won't work! Additionally, organic vapor cartridges are required in addition to a half mask. Since I knew I would use it a lot, I bought a silicone mask, which cost me a little more. But it's not necessary, as long as you get one that fits right. If there is any other way for outside air to enter, even a mask with filters is useless. A mask is also necessary if you are just sanding, but a paper mask is fine as long as it is rated p95.

While spraying sealant, I protect my hands with thin rubber gloves. Cleaning it off the skin is difficult, and some of my sealants claim that chemicals can enter the body through the skin. Avoiding harm is preferable.

The doll, not me, is protected by plastic wrap. I wrap it around the parts of my body and hair where I don't want the spray to get. Other things are utilized by some. Avoid getting the sealant on a doll's hair because it is nearly impossible to remove. I purchased this particular piece of plastic wrap from Costco, and I am very pleased with it! I don't have to use tape to secure it like I used to with other brands because it is so thin and sticks to itself so well. Additionally, I adore the box it comes in; the tiny sliding blade makes cutting it a breeze!

4. Spray PaintsI haven't yet tried any of these items on my dolls, but when I do, I'll post an update here. More of a placeholder for products that I think might work is this. On the hard plastic body, I'm pretty sure that these will work, but I'm not so sure about the vinyl heads. Here is a blog post about how to use spray paint on vinyl for cars if you want something that has already been proven to work. It appears that the only drawback is that there are only a few colors available and you must first remove all of the mold release.

5. Pastes for Modeling These are pastes that you can use to model, as the name suggests. They stick very well to surfaces because they are pastes, but they also stick to your fingers, making it hard to shape them. After spreading the desired amount with a spatula, I discovered an easy solution: cover it with a sheet of plastic wrap. The plastic wrap serves as a barrier and lets you freely shape it; once you're done, carefully peel it off. When the area is dry, you can sand it until it is perfectly smooth.

Unlike Liquitex, Golden Modeling Paste is dry and flexible. It and the vinyl head both flex well. Because it really adheres to the vinyl and won't come off when you flex it, I would use this instead of flexible clay. It lets you change and add any facial features you want! After it has dried, you will leave an indent if you press your nail into it. However, it appears to be extremely resilient; the indent will begin to fade away almost immediately, and after a while, you won't even be able to tell it was there. I will use this material to construct the mouth and nose of a Navi. There is a lighter version available, which appears to be identical. It just feels a little softer and weighs less.

The basic modeling paste from Liquitex is not flexible. However, they do have one that is unique. I haven't tried it yet because I can't find it. You don't need this rigid modeling paste; you can just use epoxy or air-dry clay for the body. However, if a sculpt has any small divots or dips, filling out and smoothing the surface is helpful. It easily thins out with water and sand.
The first part of my tutorial is finished here! There is still a lot more I want to talk about. I haven't mentioned my pastels, water color pencils, acrylic paint, paint mediums, paintbrushes, sparkley stuff, varnish and gloss, rerooting supplies, glue, and clay yet in terms of my materials. After that, I'll still have to write about the actual painting process!

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